Wool Week 2020: Gender-Neutral Tailoring from Ben Osborn and Dormeuil

Dormeuil has collaborated with fashion designer Ben Osborn to produce a stunning one-off garment to mark Wool Week 2020. 

The jacket is woven in Dormeuil’s Travel Resistant lightweight wool. With transparency and traceability in each stage of the fabric production process, the sustainable cloth has been developed for day-to-day use with resistant and active fibres.

Tailored in a dark blue wool with subtle coloured shades in the weave, it features a single-breasted, three button closure and a knee length cut. It is constructed with padded shoulders and canvassed chest, fully lined and finished with horn buttons. 

Ben, who graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2019, based the design on his MA collection, using traditional tailoring techniques combined with architectural silhouettes. Inspired by both naval uniforms and mid-century women’s couture, the jacket crosses over from menswear to womenswear. 

The collaboration is part of an innovative project for Wool Week led by Future Fashion Factory, bringing together exciting new design talent from the Royal College of Art with Yorkshire mills. Dormeuil weaves its luxury cloth at the company’s mill in Dewsbury, West Yorkshire. 

Ben’s jacket can be found along with the full collection in Future Fashion Factory’s virtual showroom, created in partnership with BrandLab Fashion:

Close-up of buttons on single-breasted navy blue jacket by Ben Osborn

Ben Osborn said: “I often use wool within my work and particularly love working with British mills. It was a pleasure to collaborate with Dormeuil, who have embraced the importance of ethical practice within their business model.

“The cloth I selected is from a range which uses a fully transparent production process. The cloth handles beautifully and proves that sustainable materials can be developed without compromise to the quality or performance of the fabric.”

Richard Boide, Commercial Director at Dormeuil, said: “Working with Fashion Schools and young designers allows Dormeuil to educate newcomers to the fashion industry. When these new designers appreciate the entire production process, they can better interpret how to maximize the benefits of Dormeuil’s luxurious cloths. With this knowledge, designers will continue to realize new opportunities and creative expressions with Dormeuil’s ever evolving cloth innovations.

“An example of these on-going collaborations is Ben Osborn’s latest single-breasted jacket, inspired from historical tailoring for both men and women. This gender-neutral garment is perfectly representative of a stunning, yet efficient collaboration, enhancing Dormeuil’s latest fabric technology into a dazzling, modern jacket.”

Suzy Shepherd, Co-Director of Future Fashion Factory, said: “Ben has a knowledge and respect for some of the most renowned luxury heritage cloth produced in Yorkshire. Along with his sense of timeless but contemporary design, the jacket has captured this story perfectly.

“Future Fashion Factory engages with regional mills and the wider fashion industry to celebrate both the heritage and continuing innovation exemplified by this collaboration between Dormeuil and Ben Osborn.”